Litter training

Rabbits are easily litter trained. By nature, many rabbits will choose to relieve themselves in the same place.

Litter Boxes
Many pet stores carry litter boxes that are specially marketed for rabbits. These litter boxes are typically triangular in shape and are meant to be placed in the corner of a cage or enclosure. Some examples can be found here. However, these corner litter boxes are only suitable for very small young rabbits and breeds. As a more popular choice, cat litter boxes may also be used. These can easily be found for cheap at places like Walmart, Target, and Kmart or online at Amazon.com.

To decide what size of cat litter box to get, use the following guide:
 * under 5 pounds: medium
 * under 10 pounds: large
 * over 10 pounds or bonded pairs: extra-large

If you have a pair of rabbits that share a litter box, you will want to give them plenty of room -- the bigger the better! Otherwise, have multiple litter boxes. If your bunny like to dig in his litter box, you may wish to invest in a covered litter box or a sifting litter box. Rabbits like to back up into a side or corner to pee, so make sure you get a box tall enough to cover his behind.

Here are some more resources on litter box options, including some DIY.
 * All Creatures Rescue & Sanctuary, Rabbit litter box recommendations
 * Furrybutts, Bunny Litter Box Ideas
 * George Flentke, George's Project Corner: A Litterbox Idea
 * RabbitsOnline.net, My Cage / Litter box ideas
 * RabbitsOnline.net, Litter Box w/Grate Idea
 * RabbitsOnline.net, The Stormhaven Litter System-Step by Step Instructions
 * Susan Davis, Alternative Litterbox

Appropriate Litter Substrate
It is important to choose a rabbit-safe material to use in the litter box.

Rabbit-safe litters include the following:
 * paper substrates (e.g. Carefresh, Yesterday's News, Eco Bedding, Cell-Sorb Plus, shredded newspaper and phone book pages)
 * sawdust-compressed pellets (e.g. Feline Pine, wood stove pellets, horse bedding)
 * straw pellets (e.g. Cat Country, Critter Country, Oxbow Eco-Straw)
 * hardwood chips (e.g. aspen)

The following litters are not safe for use with rabbits:
 * softwood chips (i.e. pine and cedar)
 * clay and clumping cat litters
 * corn/wheat based litters

Softwood chips can cause liver and respiratory problems, and the latter two types can cause severe problems when eaten, such as blockages and digestive problems. Heat treated pine chips can be safe for rabbits, but unless you are on an extremely tight budget, it is best to keep to other types of litter.

Make sure that your bunny is not ingesting too much of the litter substrate regardless of type. If you see him doing so, you may wish to invest in a sifting litter box or make your own mesh cover for the litter.

A useful guide from the HRS to print out when shopping for litter brands can be found here.

Preparing Your Litter Box
A basic litter box should consist first of a layer of your chosen litter substrate and then a layer of hay to encourage your rabbit to eat in it. It may sound gross, but rabbits tend to eat and poop and pee at the same time and place. As a result, keeping his munchies in or near a litter box will encourage proper litter habits. If you are worried about the rabbit getting sick, he is smart enough and will not consume the urine-soaked hay.

A thin layer of around an inch of litter substrate is acceptable if you change the litter box every day or every other day. If you wish to change the litter box less, put a layer of around 3-4 inches of litter substrate. You will probably be fine for at least 3 days. The main reason to change a litter box is due to the odor or lack of litter substrate left to absorb urine. Urine is the main cause of rabbit odor and is used as the main method by rabbits to mark territory. Your rabbit will probably also produce mountains of poop but it is not as big of a problem as soaked litter. If your rabbit seems to not use his litter box after a while, it may be because it is too dirty. Rabbits are meticulous creatures -- you can tell from their grooming habits -- and will not use dirty litter boxes. Additionally, if the rabbit is in contact with the bun's paws too long, it will stain and may even burn his feet. As a result, please make an effort to change your rabbit's litter box regularly.

Some may be concerned at the waste of hay by placing it in the litter box. The waste can be reduced by instead placing a hay rack near the litter box so that the rabbit can sit in the box and eat. It is less of a concern if you have bought a bale of hay for your rabbit. Ultimately, it is a good idea to combine the location of the hay feeding and bathroom.

You may also wish to place some of the bunny's poops and urine-soaked paper or hay in the litter box to let him know that the litter box is an acceptable place to potty.

Additional Resources

 * San Diego House Rabbit Society, Setting Up Bunny's Litterbox

Changing the Litter Box
Commonly, the entire litter box is dumped and refreshed when it's time to change the litter. This is the easiest method. If you are more proactive, you can go through and scoop out only the wet litter and replace that section. A sifting litter box can allow you to recoup the most hay and make it easier to pick out the poop and scoop out wet litter.

Be careful about changing the litter box too often. The rabbit can get the impression that he is not supposed to use it if he never finds his scent there.

Make a mixture of water and vinegar, around 1:1, to wipe down the litter box to dissolve any deposits that rabbit urine leaves. This mixture is also useful to help clean surfaces that your bunny has marked. The vinegar will also break down the scent.

Training Methods
As a note to begin with, before we go into training methods, spaying or neutering your rabbit will go a long way towards consistent litter habits. As Dana Krempels, Ph.D., states, "The most important thing to remember is that your rabbit is very unlikely to retain reliable litterbox habits upon reaching sexual maturity unless she is spayed/he is neutered. Sex hormones give a rabbit an uncontrollable desire to mark the territory with urine and specially scented fecal pellets. Spay/neuter will eliminate/greatly reduce this drive, as well as eliminate the risk of uterine/ovarian cancer and unwanted pregnancy in females. And let's not forget the huge relief from endless sexual frustration that spayed/neutered animals enjoy."

Once you have set up a proper litter box, place it in area where the bunny can be comfortably confined for a couple of days except when let out for exercise and play. You may place it in any corner of the housing enclosure but be warned you may need to move it if the bunny decides to pick his own potty corner. Rabbits are rather stubborn, and it tends to be easier to go along with his choice rather than try to adjust him. Reward him with more and more free space when he pees and poops in the litter box consistently.

It is expected that the bunny will have poor litter habits the first few days, but clean up any messes not in the litter box with a mixture of vinegar and water or pet-friendly cleaner to rid of the scent and discourage the urge to re-mark. If you catch them peeing or pooping outside, try to interrupt them and move them in the litter box. You may also place some pee-stained papers in the litter box and poop pellets to let them know that it's an acceptable place to potty.

The hay in or over the litter box should encourage proper litter habits since, as we stated earlier, disgusting as it is, a rabbit will often happily munch on one end and potty from the other at the same time. You can reinforce the behavior by rewarding him with a healthy treat when you see him sitting in the litter box.

Don't get too frustrated with the bun if it doesn't seem like he is getting the point. Remember, rabbits do not respond well to physical discipline. They are easily frightened and hurt. Some bunnies may take a while to learn but generally should get better in a week or two. A rabbit at any age can learn proper potty habits given enough time and motivation.

Eliminating Outside of the Box
Although rabbits are typically easy to litter train, some rabbits may display problem behavior, such as relieving themselves outside of the litter box and peeing on beds and couches. The cause for this varies, but in many cases can be solved by desexing an intact rabbit.

If your rabbit has already been fixed, environmental changes, stress, and medical problems can also cause poor litter habits. The introduction of a new pet (bunny, cat, dog, or other) will cause your bun to feel territorial and poop everywhere. The same may occur if you move around furniture too much or move to a new place. However, as the rabbit gets used to the new environment, his litter habits should return to normal. If no stressful or environmental factors can be detected, your bun may have a urinary tract infection (UTI) or another condition that is causing a weak bladder. In this case, please take your rabbit to his veterinarian to be properly diagnosed and medicated if necessary.

If the rabbit reliably uses his litter box in his area yet consistently potties in another corner when let free to exercise and play, you may wish to set up another litter box in that corner if properly cleaning up after him does not change his behavior. Like stated before, rabbits are very stubborn, and it may be better to compromise. :)

If your litter box smells, that is a sign that you should be changing your litter box more frequently. A proper litter box should not give off any odor.

Digging in the Box
Rabbits have a natural instinct to dig. This sometimes results in them digging in the litter box and thus flinging litter, pee, and poo everywhere. Although there is not much you can do to stop the rabbit from digging, there are a few things you can try to prevent messes. A sifting litter box with litter underneath the sifting portion prevents the rabbit from digging in the litter. You may also try making your own mesh cover to sit on top of the litter or a baking cooling rack.