Hay

From WabbitWiki

Hay is simply a dried, preserved, fibrous plant material. The fiber content of hay that stimulates peristalsis and supports bacterial growth and gastrointestinal pH for proper digestion in hindgut fermenters like rabbits.[1]

Why should rabbits eat hay?

Hay is the most important part of a rabbit's diet. It is the prime source of fiber to keep the GI tract of a rabbit working properly and also helps grind down teeth to prevent overgrowth. See Teeth for more information as to what sort of problems a lack of fiber in their diet can cause. Hay can also serve as entertainment as it takes a while to chew. Some bunnies like digging and rearranging their hay. Rabbits will not gain weight on an unlimited proper hay diet.

Do note that a rabbit eating only hay is not sufficient for a healthy nutritious long-term diet. Not only can too much indigestible fiber lead to an impacted cecum, but rabbits also receive very little nutrition from hay because it passes so rapidly through the gut.[2] Vitamin content is either in very low amounts or nonexistent in hay.[3] In addition to hay, rabbits require more easily-digested foods from which to obtain the nutrition necessary to maintain their bodies. However, it is safe to put your rabbit on a hay-only diet for a couple of weeks or longer due to problems like an overproduction of cecotrophs or running out of other food supplies, but owners should be mindful and closely monitor for any weight loss.[4][5]

The following links contain more information about the importance of hay in a rabbit's diet.

Cuttings of hay

Some hays (mostly timothy) will also come with a choice of first, second, or third cuttings. In the continental US, hay is usually harvested starting in March to mid-November. The most active harvesting dates are usually June to September.[6]

Comparison of Stages in Cutting Hay[1]
Immature Hay Mature Hay
  • Lower fiber content (can be <20% crude fiber)
  • Lower ADF content
  • Higher protein level
  • More leaves
  • May cause soft stools in some animals
  • Higher fiber content
  • Higher ADF content
  • Lower protein level
  • Higher stem content
  • May not be as palatable
Comparison of hay cuts - image source.

First cutting

The first growth off of a field for the year is the first cutting. Generally, the first cutting should be harvested when relatively immature (pre-bloom stage), before the plant is allowed to mature to the point where the stem becomes larger and coarser.[7]

Anecdotally, 1st and 2nd cutting timothy grass hay works well for animals with a delicate digestive system, skin problems, issues with diarrhea and weight problems.[7]

Second cutting

A second cutting is the second crop taken off a field that has already been harvested once in that given year. Depending upon the temperatures of the days and nights, it typically takes 40-45 days for regrowth of alfalfa, mix hay, and orchardgrass, and 55- 60 days for regrowth of timothy.[7]

The second cutting usually has a larger percentage of leaves to stems, has a finer and softer stem, has increased percentages of crude protein and crude fat, and has a lower crude fiber percentage depending on the maturity of the grass when it was cut.[7]

Anecdotally, 1st and 2nd cutting timothy grass hay works well for animals with a delicate digestive system, skin problems, issues with diarrhea and weight problems.[7]

Third cutting

If the growing season is long enough on any given year, it may be possible to secure a third cutting on a field. The third cutting is typically very soft hay that is primarily leaves with very few small stems.[7] As a result, it can be much more palatable to picky rabbits who might not like the more immature and more fibrous 1st and 2nd cuttings.

Extra resources

For more resources on the topic, see the links below.

What types of hay can rabbits eat?

Two rabbits enjoying fresh hay in a box.

There are many types of hay available on the market, however, rabbits should only be consuming either alfalfa (a legume hay) when young and grass hays when older. All grass hays, such as timothy, orchard, oat, brome and johnson grass, are suitable for mature herbivores, because they contain protein and calcium levels appropriate to adult maintenance diets. Legume hays, such as alfalfa (lucerne), clover, vetch, peanut and pea, have relatively high protein and calcium contents, which make them beneficial for growing and lactating rabbits but unsuitable for maintenance. Some legume hays also contain high levels of oxalic acid, which may lead to precipitation of calcium oxalate in the urine of some animals result in bladder sludge.[1]

If you decide to buy by the bale, make sure the hay is horse quality, not cow quality, because horses have comparable sensitivity to rabbits while cows are more tolerant of lower-quality hay.

Here are some links for more general information and pictures on various types of hay in addition to the rest of the information already provided in this article.

What is the best type of hay for my rabbit?

While Timothy hay is the most popular type of hay marketed to adult rabbits, any type of grass hay that is rabbit-safe and your rabbit is willing to eat heaping piles of is the best type of hay for your rabbit, whether it be orchard grass, oat, rye, or other choices, as long as it doesn't cause digestive issues like excess cecals or diarrhea.

This similarly applies with type of cutting - if your rabbit is willing to eat large amounts of third cutting Timothy hay but not much of first cutting, we do not recommend forcing the issue if your rabbit ends up boycotting the hay completely. Overall fiber and consumption amount is most important, especially to prevent dental issues.

We generally recommend feeding a mixture of grass hays to help maintain interest and give some variety to your rabbits' diet. It is also useful to know what different hay types that your rabbits are willing to eat in case of supply issues.

How do I switch hay types for my rabbit?

Unlike higher nutrition foods like pellets and vegetables, you can freely introduce new hay to your rabbits without transitioning. Hay is mostly fiber that generally should not upset rabbit stomachs when switched suddenly. However, it is not a bad idea to mix hays in case your rabbit is a picky eater.

If you are transitioning a young rabbit from alfalfa to a grass hay, you can make a gradual transition and mix less and less alfalfa hay into the grass hay until you run out.

Do note that some rabbits may be allergic to certain types of hay, especially if one is dustier. Monitor your rabbit for increased sneezing when changing between types of hay.

Alfalfa

Alfalfa hay closeup.

Alfalfa, also known as lucerne or luzerne in some countries, is a herbaceous perennial legume that originated near Iran. It has a high mineral content and contains at least 10 different vitamins.[7] Alfalfa is high-fiber like grass hays but also contains more protein, energy and calcium.[8] As a result, alfalfa should only be fed to growing young bunnies under the age of 7 months. For the older bunny, constant alfalfa hay consumption can lead to gummy droppings, weight gain, sludge, and cecal pellets not being eaten.[9] Additionally, the calcium in alfalfa hay can predispose rabbits to urolithiasis when fed in large amounts.[10]

Alfalfa is typically distinguished by their usually brittle stalks with flat green to brown leaves. Hay can vary from dark lime-green to yellow, green, or brown depending on the season. [9]

The following is crude analysis for various types of alfalfa hay from the 2015 Feed Composition Tables.[11]

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Alfalfa cubes 91 18 29 1.30
Alfalfa, fresh 24 19 27 1.35
Alfalfa hay, early bloom 90 19 28 1.41
Alfalfa hay, midbloom 89 17 30 1.40
Alfalfa hay, full bloom 88 16 34 1.20
Alfalfa hay, mature 88 13 38 1.18

Timothy

Timothy hay closeup.

Timothy grass, a perennial bunchgrass, is a cool-season forage grass.[7] Timothy hay is the most popular hay fed to rabbits. It looks like a dried fairly wide blade of grass, and its color is a soft green to grey or brown-green. Timothy hay also has "solid cattails" which distinguishes it from Orchard grass which has "broken cattails."[9]

Many people who are allergic to hay have the worst symptoms with timothy hay. Consider switching to a less dusty hay if you are allergic to hay. Many rabbit owners have seen great improvement when switching to orchard grass hay.

The following is crude analysis for various types of timothy hay from the 2015 Feed Composition Tables.[11]

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Timothy, fresh, pre-bloom 26 11 31 0.40
Timothy hay, early bloom 88 11 32 0.58
Timothy hay, full bloom 88 8 34 0.43

Oat hay

Oat Hay closeup.

The San Diego House Rabbit Society states,[9]

If bun's diet is high in oat hay, the pellets she produces will be larger, lighter in color, and will look like sawdust if crushed. Many bunnies would benefit from eating more oat hay, an excellent preventative for GI Stasis.

The following is crude analysis for oat hay from the 2015 Feed Composition Tables.[11]

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Oat hay 90 10 31 0.40

As one can see, oat hay is a perfectly acceptable alternative to the more popular timothy, orchard grass, and meadow hay and has a very similar basic nutrition. The "oat" in the name may be misleading, and some may think it is more fattening and should be a treat, but the hay is cut before the actual oat kernel is fully mature. As a result, the seed heads consist of mostly oat husks that are rich in fiber.[12]

Oat hay can also differ greatly in color from a pale green to a golden yellow, depending on how close to maturity the hay is harvested. The closer to maturity, the more golden the hay will be. A good-quality cereal hay is harvested when the grain is immature (soft dough stage) and the leaves and stems are still green, and therefore higher in digestible nutrients. If the cereal hay is harvested after the grain is removed, it is no longer considered hay but straw.[13]

Uncommonly, rabbits can be gluten intolerant, and feeding oat hay may cause chronic diarrhea and poopy butt. While oats themselves do not have gluten, the grass is often contaminated with wheat, barley, or rye during harvesting.[14]

Bermudagrass

Bermuda grass hay closeup.

This hay is made from the same grass common in many lawns.

The following is crude analysis for various types of bermuda grass hay from the 2015 Feed Composition Tables.[11]

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Bermudagrass coastal hay 89 10 30 0.47
Bermudagrass hay 89 10 29 0.46

Orchardgrass

Orchardgrass, also known as cocksfoot or orchard grass, is native to Europe, North Africa, and parts of Asia but has been grown in North America for more than 200 years. It is a cool season grass that grows in clumps or tufts and has a fibrous root system.[7]

The following is crude analysis for various types of orchard grass hay from the 2015 Feed Composition Tables.[11]

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Orchardgrass, fresh, early bloom 24 14 30 0.33
Orchardgrass hay 88 10 34 0.32

Meadow hay

Meadow hay is not a specific type of grass, but instead, it is a blend of soft grasses grown in a meadow. Sometimes other plants such as dandelions, thistles, clover, and other rabbit-safe weeds may also make it into the bale.

The following is crude analysis for various types of meadow hay from the 2015 Feed Composition Tables.[11]

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Meadow hay 90 7 33 0.61

Other hay

The following is crude analysis for various types of hay not in the above categories from the 2015 Feed Composition Tables.[11] These are all also safe to feed your rabbit if you wish, but please be careful of the higher calcium and protein contents in the legume hays. Like alfalfa, legume hays are not appropriate to feed to adults regularly as part of their diet but is okay as a treat.

Grass hays

Wheat hay closeup.
Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Bahiagrass hay 90 6 32 0.47
Barley hay 90 9 28 0.30
Bromegrass hay 89 10 35 0.40
Canarygrass hay 91 9 32 0.38
Elephant (napier) grass hay, chopped 92 9 24 0.35
Fescue, KY 31, hay, early bloom 88 18 25 0.48
Fescue, KY 31, hay, mature 88 11 30 0.45
Grass hay 88 10 33 0.60
Kenaf hay 92 10 31 N/A
Prairie hay 91 7 34 0.40
Rye grass hay 90 10 33 0.45
Sanfoin hay 88 14 24 N/A
Sudangrass hay 88 9 36 0.50
Triticale hay 90 10 34 0.30
Wheat hay 90 9 29 0.21
Wheatgrass, crested, hay 92 10 33 0.33

Legume hays

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Birdsfoot trefoil hay 89 16 31 1.73
Clover, ladino, hay 90 21 22 1.35
Clover, red, hay 88 15 30 1.50
Clover, sweet, hay 91 16 30 1.27
Kudzu hay 90 16 33 3.00
Lespedeza hay 92 14 30 1.10
Pea Vine hay 89 11 32 1.25
Soybean hay 89 16 33 1.28
Vetch hay 89 18 30 1.25

Miscellaneous hays

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Kochia hay 90 14 27 1.00

Straw

Straw is the dried stalks of cereal plants like wheat and a by-product of harvest. If any seeds or grains remain on the stalks, it is by accident. Hay refers to grasses or legume plants cut down fresh and baled for animal feed.[15] Grain hay such as oat, barley, and wheat hay may sometimes have a coloration similar to straw's when harvested closer to maturity, but the hay is cut before the seedheads are fully developed, so the nutrition is still in the stalks and not all in the seedheads. Grain hay should also have most of the seeds and grains on the stems. Hay bales are usually greener than straw bales, and the plant material finer. Straw bales are also usually half to a third of the weight of a hay bale due to the mostly hollow stalks.[16]

Although rabbits eat it, straw is not recommended because it is low in nutrients and will lead to deficiencies if it is a major part of the diet.[17] However, straw can be safely used as a bedding, especially for outdoor hutches during the winter.

The following is crude analysis for various types of straw from the 2012 Feed Composition Tables compiled by R.L. Preston, Ph.D.[18]

Name Dry Matter
(%)		 Crude Protein
(%)		 Crude Fiber
(%)		 Calcium
(%)
Barley Straw 90 4 42 0.32
Bluegrass Straw 93 6 40 0.20
Fescue (Red) Straw 94 4 41 0.00
Oat Straw 91 4 41 0.24
Pea Vine Straw 89 7 49 0.75
Rice Straw 91 4 38 0.23
Rye Straw 89 4 44 0.24
Soybean Straw 88 5 44 1.59
Wheat Straw 91 3 43 0.17

Below are some links that go into greater detail about the differences between hay and straw.

What is good quality hay?

Good quality hay should be green and aromatic. It should not be overly dry, brown, damp, moldy or dusty.[1]

Below are some links with more information about choosing good quality hay.

Where can I buy hay?

Pet store

Pet stores will carry a variety of hay (i.e. Timothy, orchard grass, alfalfa, etc.). Typically, the amount that can be bought will range from about 24 oz up to 5 pounds. Although it is convenient to buy hay at a local pet store, this is often an expensive option. A 64oz bag will usually last a couple of weeks at ~$8. Additionally, most pet store brands offer lower quality hay that is very hard and stalky. The recommended popular hay brand is Oxbow, although this may be quite expensive since they carry a premium price compared to other commercial brands.

Some brands may offer fruit mixed in the hay -- DO NOT BUY THESE. Only buy bags of hay with only hay in them and no other treats. Dried herbs are acceptable, however. You can feed fresh healthy treats on the side, independent of the hay and easily rationed.

Through the local rabbit rescue

If you live in a location with a House Rabbit Society chapter or rescue, check and see if they sell boxes, flakes, or bales of hay at a cheap price! Of course, buying a bale yourself will be cheaper, but if you do not have the space to store it, support your local HRS chapter or rescue! They will most likely sell fresh hay at a better rate than the small bags at pet stores. Your bunny will most likely love and wallow in the fresh hay.

Some examples of House Rabbit Society chapters and rescues that sell hay include the following:

  • San Diego House Rabbit Society, San Diego, CA -- $12 for 7-8lbs of hay.[19]
  • House Rabbit Society Headquarters, Richmond, CA -- $5 for a flake (garbage bag full) of hay.[20]
  • Missouri House Rabbit Society, Kansas City, MO -- $23 for 12.5lbs, $45 for 25lbs, $75 for 40lbs.[21]
  • Lowcountry House Rabbit Society,Charleston, SC -- $17 for 10lbs, $25 for 20lbs.[22]

Online in bulk

Some bunny owners like buying their hay online in bulk. These suppliers also typically ship much fresher hay than the average commercial brand. When bought in a large enough order, costs can be around $1/lb of hay depending on supplier.

United States (US):

Canada:

United Kingdom (UK):

France:

Australia:

Singapore:

A California bale of hay in a Honda Fit.

By the bale

Main article: Hay bale

The cheapest option typically is a bale of hay. One bale, usually ranging from about 70 to 110 lbs depending on type, can feed one rabbit for approximately a year. Prices vary depending on location from only $5 to about $30. However, this requires space to properly store the hay as it is easily perishable when wet.

You can obtain a bale of hay at local animal feed stores, select rabbit rescues, or farms. Be sure that if you purchase from a feed store or farm, the hay is horse-quality, not cow-quality. Cows have much more tolerant stomachs while horses are comparable to rabbits.

See Hay bale for more details on how to split and store hay.

Craigslist ads and word of mouth

Sometimes, you may be able to find private owners that wish to share a purchased bale of hay to make it more manageable. You may be able to get great deals this way. Look for owners of rabbits, chinchillas, or guinea pigs as they have similar hay requirements.

How should I store my hay?

It is very important to keep hay dry and out of direct sunlight. Dampness will cause mold in the hay, and sunlight may leech out nutrients in the hay over time. The best location to store hay is in a cool indoor location out of direct sunlight.

Some good containers to store hay are cardboard boxes and plastic containers with holes drilled into the sides for air flow. Plastic garbage bags can also be used if you leave the top open for moisture to escape. Other ideas include laundry hampers and plastic totes.

If you must store hay outside, invest in a waterproof tarp along with some bricks to keep the hay off the ground to prevent mold. Otherwise, if your hay is properly dry, a watertight deck box or large plastic tote can be appropriate.

If properly stored, hay can keep to over two years. However, the hay will drastically lose vitamins A & E after the first year.[25][26]

Check out Hay_bale#Storing_a_bale_of_hay for more ideas on storing a large bale of hay.

The following links contain more information and options on how to properly store hay.

SNORS

"How to store hay."

Special Needs Older Rabbits Sanctuary (SNORS) how to store hay tips.

Hay may be dried, but it needs to be able to breathe! Hay should be stored in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight and in a container where it can breathe and not get mouldy. You can store your hay in a loft, garage, shed or cupboard in the house. Store it in:

🌾 A cardboard box

🌾 A cotton laundry hamper

🌾 A linen basket

🌾 A jute sack

Do not store it in plastic bags or sealed plastic containers as this will encourage mould spores.

How should I give my rabbits hay?

Great care must be taken when using a hanging hay rack with open holes! Image by Best 4 Bunny
Cute bunnies using a hanging hay rack that must be used with great care. Source: Lets Show Rabbits Some Protection Society
A homemade DIY hay rack made from cardboard and extra NIC panels. See here for more pictures and diagrams on how to make your own.
Hay rack ideas on pintrest: Hay for rabbits.

There are many options available to dispense hay to your rabbits. Some owners directly place a layer of hay in the litter box. Others may use hay racks to try to minimize the amount of waste soiled by pee and poop. However, please note that some rabbits will still enjoy pulling out all the hay from the hay rack before picking through and consuming the parts they like.

Commercially made hay racks can be easily found in pet stores and online. If you have extra wire grids left over from making a NIC cube condo for your rabbit, you can easily fashion a hay rack from those, too.

Be careful that your rabbit will not be able to jump in or get their head stuck in the hay dispenser.

Below are some hay racks you can buy online.

The following links provide some options for non-commercial hay racks, either re-purposed household items or DIY solutions.

101Rabbits. (2014). How to Make a Hay Box

Some repurposed items that could be used as hay racks are the following:

Below are image galleries of hay racks that people have made.

Example of a DIY wooden dowel hay rack being used by Leeloo and Simon . Photo © B.Eaton, used with permission.
Example of a DIY paper bag hay rack with Beelze & Penelope. Photo © /u/kittymonger, used with permission. More pictures.
Example of a custom DIY hay rack & litterbox with Kirby & Mayzy. Photo © /u/geekykitten, used with permission. More pictures.


Here are some video reviews of hay racks that rabbit owners have tried.

101Rabbits. (2012). Hay Rack Review!

Encouraging your rabbit to eat hay

At the bare minimum, rabbits should be encouraged to eat at least 3 oz. of hay a day.[27] A rabbit not eating enough hay can be prone to digestive and dental issues.

If your rabbit has suddenly stopped eating hay and other hard objects, please see a rabbit-experienced veterinarian to consider ruling out dental issues as a cause. Radiographs may be necessary to check overgrown teeth roots if their incisors and molars look fine with a visual check.

Some ideas to help increase your rabbit's hay consumption are the following:[1]

  • Introduce a variety of grass hays at an early age to increase acceptance.
  • Offer hay in generous amounts, at least half a body size in volume a day.
  • Offer hay in multiple locations and in a variety of containers to encourage play.
  • Use hay as a bedding or lounging space.
  • Rabbits tend to like to eat their hay while simultaneously use their litter box.
  • Do not remove hay unless it is soiled. Replacing the hay constantly encourages the rabbit to be picky and eat only leafy parts and not the stems which contain the most fiber.
  • Hide pellets and other healthy treats like herbs to encourage foraging. See Online rabbit treat stores for sources.
  • Shred carrots into a pile of hay to make a "hay salad".
  • Lightly mist the hay with flavored water or diluted juice. Moistened hay should be discarded at the end of the day to prevent mold growth in their litter box.
  • As a last resort, steam hay to increase the moisture content, make it tender, and intensify the aroma and flavor. To steam hay, bring a pot of 1 inch of water to a boil. Place a handful of hay into a steaming basket and steam for 10-15 seconds. Fruit juice can be added to the water for flavor. Moistened hay should be discarded at the end of the day to prevent mold growth in their litter box.

Here are some links to read for more information on getting your rabbit to eat more hay.

Possible dangers of hay

Hay can be the cause of uncommon accidents.

  • Inhaled. This will often cause snuffles and weepy eyes in rabbits if not removed.
  • Wrapped around limbs. Timmy a small 2 pound Lionhead, had a piece of hay wrapped around his foot and it was not noticed because of his long fur. The hay could not be seen and Timmy tried to chew his foot off. Luckily, with a very rabbit savvy vet, he only ended up losing the very tip of his toes. Something to watch for.
  • Lodged in gums. Milo had developed an abscess on his cheek that was thought to maybe be from dental problems. During surgery, they determined it was actually a piece of hay that got lodged into his gums. Milo is ok so far but has a pretty nasty scar on his cheek that we have to watch for the next two weeks. The vet told Milo's parent that "it was just a unfortunate random act that I couldn't have prevented."
Timmy recovering with a foot wrap. Image (c) P.Murdock, used with permission.
The hay that caused all of Milo's problems. Image (c) B.Menendez, used with permission.
  • Stuck in the eyes. Rabbits can get small pieces of hay unfortunately stuck in their eyes and consequently cause serious eye injuries and ulcers, especially if they are fed with hay bags with stalky hay like timothy and alfalfa. It is important to notice if your rabbit has weepy eyes and take them to the emergency veterinary hospital if you suspect an eye injury.
Owner found their rabbit with an eye squeezed shut with mucus. The rabbit persistently tried to paw and scratch at the irritated eye. The rabbit was rushed to an emergency veterinarian, and a large grass seed was removed. The rabbit was placed on pain medication and antibiotic eye drops due to an eye ulcer that had developed.
The large grass seed that was removed.
  • Foreign material found in hay Hay is harvested in fields, sometimes there may be foreign objects found in hay when bundled up. Ex. animal carcasses, metal, plastic or broken glass, etc. Keep an eye out for foreign objects to ensure your bunny does not ingest it or suffer any injuries.
Owner found plastic bale string in hay.

Further reading

See also

References

  1. ↑ 1.0 1.1 1.2 1.3 1.4 Exotic Animal, Application of Hay Science
  2. ↑ Moore, L. (2011). Rabbit Nutrition and Nutritional Healing. (1st ed.).
  3. ↑ Krishona Martinson, PhD, and Marcia Hathaway, PhD, University of Minnesota, What is the vitamin content of grass hay?
  4. ↑ Rabbit Awareness Week. (2013). The Research. Retrieved 01 May 2013 from https://web.archive.org/web/20130702072044/http://www.rabbitawarenessweek.co.uk/diet/the-research
  5. ↑ Ref2014. (2014). Impact case study. Retrieved 02 Jun 2017 from http://impact.ref.ac.uk/casestudies2/refservice.svc/GetCaseStudyPDF/23915.
  6. ↑ United States Department of Agriculture. (1997). Usual Planting and Harvesting Dates for US Field Crops. Retrieved 7 March, 2016, from http://swat.tamu.edu/media/90113/crops-typicalplanting-harvestingdates-by-states.pdf
  7. ↑ 7.0 7.1 7.2 7.3 7.4 7.5 7.6 7.7 7.8 House Rabbit Society, Linda Sterett-Fogarty, Hay in Your Bunny's Diet - Quality and Quantities for Healthy Digestion
  8. ↑ Atascadero Hay & Feed, Hay
  9. ↑ 9.0 9.1 9.2 9.3 San Diego House Rabbit Society, Types of Hays and Grasses
  10. ↑ Meredith, A & Redrobe, S. (2001). BSAVA Manual of Exotic Pets. (4th ed.).
  11. ↑ 11.0 11.1 11.2 11.3 11.4 11.5 11.6 BeefMagazine.com. (2015). 2015 Feed Composition Table. Retrieved 31 Jan 2017 from http://www.beefmagazine.com/sites/beefmagazine.com/files/uploads/2015/02/2015-BEEF-Magazine-Feed-Comp-Tables.pdf
  12. ↑ Oxbow. (2013). Oat Hay. Retrieved 9 March, 2016, from http://www.oxbowanimalhealth.com/products/type/detail?object=1529
  13. ↑ Mark Llewellyn, Hay Selection for Horses
  14. ↑ Iva Hoffmanová et al. (2019). The Pros and Cons of Using Oat in a Gluten-Free Diet for Celiac Patients. Retrieved 14 May 2024 from https://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pmc/articles/PMC6835965/#sec4-nutrients-11-02345title.
  15. ↑ Root Simple, My mental glitch: hay vs. straw
  16. ↑ Amazonails, Hay vs. Straw: A Look at Key Differences
  17. ↑ The British Rabbit Council, Anna Meredith, The Importance of Diet in Rabbits
  18. ↑ BeefMagazine.com, R.L. Preston, Ph.D., 2012 Feed Comp
  19. ↑ San Diego House Rabbit Society, Hay Sales throughout San Diego County
  20. ↑ Yelp, House Rabbit Society
  21. ↑ Missouri House Rabbit Society, Products and Services
  22. ↑ Lowcountry House Rabbit Society, Rabbit Hay Sale
  23. ↑ House Rabbit Society, Shop At One Ear Up Hay, Get a Discount, and HRS Gets 5%
  24. ↑ House Rabbit Society, Shop for Rabbit Supplies
  25. ↑ Rutgers. (n.d.). Ask the Expert -- Farm and Pasture Management > How long can one store hay? Retrieved 15 Apr 2019 from https://esc.rutgers.edu/ask-the-expert/#how-long-can-one-store-hay
  26. ↑ Clair Thunes, PhD. (2017). Nutrition Loss in Stored Hay. Retrieved 15 Apr 2019 from https://thehorse.com/19685/nutrition-loss-in-stored-hay/
  27. ↑ Harriman, M. (2005). House Rabbit Handbook: How to Live with an Urban Rabbit. (4th ed.).
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